Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Running into Nyaus

Luc still finds the time to run most afternoons when things aren't too hectic with school work or managing the computer lab. This week he encountered a funeral while out in the countryside near the Malawi border. Oftentimes the Nyau, traditional costumed Chewa spirit channelers, will come out in large numbers to attend these events. While trying to avoid the funerary procession, Luc became engulfed by these frightening men in animal trance. Local custom dictates that you must flee the presence of the Nyau, or risk their aggression, but with no homes or structures nearby, the only place to hide was a large mango tree, which he adeptly climbed. The Nyau circled the tree like a pack of hungry hyenas, growling and yelping in their unearthly Nyau language, while clanging their machetes. The beast-like men don't usually target foreigners, but they are also not fully in control of their own actions, so we are always extra careful when near them. They soon moved on and Luc descended from his defensive perch, only to realize that a large group of locals had been watching the entire process, no doubt amused to see how he dealt with the situation or maybe just surprised to see that Americans also know how to climb trees. Regardless, one of our students quickly emerged to make sure everything was OK and show Luc the easiest way to retreat back to town without crossing the Nyau again. As is typical in our town, the next day at school everyone had somehow already heard the hilarious story of the American English teacher trapped up in the mango tree by a pack of vicious Nyau, so they gathered around him to press for more details.

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